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Fashion History.

100 content rich, illustrated pages of fashion History, Costume History, Clothing, Textiles and Social History. fashion History. -


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Fugitive Denim
Intrigued by a book recommended by Mike Flanagan in his latest analysis for just-style, I ve just Googled it for a closer look. Mike describes Fugitive Denim: A Moving Story of People and Pants in the Borderless World of Global Trade by Rachel Louise Snyder as an account of just how complex, and so often benign, an effect our industry has had on the life prospects of the world s poor. Another review I ve found says: In the business of making and selling clothes, “Made in” labels do precious little to convey the constellation of treaties, countries, and people at work in the assembly of a simple pair of jeans. In Fugitive Denim journalist Rachel Louise Snyder reports from the far reaches of this multi-billion-dollar industry in search of the real people who make your clothes. From a cotton picker in Azerbaijan to a Cambodian seamstress, a denim maker in Italy to a fashion designer in New York, Snyder captures the human, environmental, and political forces at work in a dizzyingly complex and often absurd world. It sounds fascinating. But if you still need convincing, this chilling insight into the real cost of a natural’ fabric was published by The Times. The excerpt includes the author s account of time spent in a cotton field in Azerbaijan: It is a brisk fall day. The only sound is the crackling of leaves under our feet. The cotton bolls we pick seem to suck the moisture from my skin. My hands, in little time, are both strangely numb and itchy. Sharp branches poke at my ankles and I can feel a mild ache beginning somewhere in my lower back. Apart from the physical drawbacks, it is mind-numbingly boring. Fugitive Denim: A Moving Story of People and Pants in the Borderless World of Global Trade by Rachel Louise Snyder is available from amazon.com if you re interested.

Macy’s on the mend?
On top of all the general economic worries it s facing in line with the rest of its competitors, Macy s Inc has another challenge on its hands: trying to lure back customers alienated by an ill-fated plan to integrate the May Department Stores chain it acquired in 2005. While now may not be the best time to be trying to engineer a turnaround, Macy s seems to be faring slightly better than its department store rivals. Or is it? The retailer might have posted a US$59m loss in the first quarter, but its results were better-than-expected, same-store sales were up, the company appears to be capturing market share, and it even reaffirmed full-year guidance. But some still believe the restructuring isn t all it’s cracked up to be. The My Macy s campaign to tailor merchandise to reflect the demands of local markets in the US is widely seen as the right way forward, but does the retailer have the ability to deliver on its promise? Are being big and unique at the same time a contradiction in terms? And does the organisation really have the capability to realise the benefits?

Stafford Wrinkle Free Oxford fashion
In quality testing, the Stafford men’s oxford dress shirt outperformed other wrinkle-free brands, making it an incredible value and an asset to any w…

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Jane Shepherdson takes Oxfam upmarket
UK charity Oxfam is adding to its portfolio of second hand shops on the high street with the launch of Oxfam Boutiques - a move sure to pull on both purse strings and heart strings. The initiative, guided by ex-Topshop brand director Jane Shepherdson, starts with the opening of its first boutique on Saturday (10 April) in Westbourne Grove, London. Two more London boutiques will follow, in Shawfield St, Chelsea and Chiswick High Road. Oxfam will immediately sell seven reworked pieces by up-and-coming sustainable fashion designers, through a live auction on ebay starting today and lasting ten days. The charity’s boutiques will sell a mixture of high quality donated items, Fair Trade fashion, designer donations, home-made accessories and organic labels, Oxfam says. It could be a pioneering move by the charity, which already has a reputation for selling retro and trendy second-hand clothing. Furthermore, by taking the lead in sustainable fashion, Oxfam could help bridge the monumental gap between fast fashion and garment recycling at large in the UK. Shepherdson, who earlier in the year struck a deal with Baugur to purchase fashion brand Whistles, is widely credited with having revolutionised buoyant UK high street chain Topshop during her time there. She says: “These boutiques are all about creating a great shopping experience. Oxfam has always been a place where stylish people hunt for interesting items to create their look, the boutiques are set to make that even easier.” By Joe Ayling, news editor.

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Canada s Olympic dispute
A row of Olympic proportions has broken out in Canada after it was revealed that the uniforms worn by athletes at this summer s Beijing Games will be made in China. Apparently Hudson’s Bay Company, official outfitter of Canada s Olympians, decided to outsource 80% of production to China as most of specified the eco-friendly bamboo, cocona and organic cotton fabrics are available only in Asia. Chris Rudge, CEO of the Canadian Olympic Committee, has also waded into the dispute after pointing out that Canada doesn t have the necessary manufacturing capacity particularly for the all-important replica clothing volumes. And what about price? Well nobody s mentioning that, but it must surely be at the heart of the matter. The irony is that China s cheap exports are largely seen as responsible for decimating the domestic trade. And rubbing salt into the wounds is the inference that Canada s textile workers can t be entrusted to make its athletes’ apparel. Canada employs several tens of thousands of textile workers, argues Robert Bouvier, president of Teamsters Canada, while Karen Pottle, co-chair of the Apparel Human Resources Council, said: We have thousands of workers who are waiting for this opportunity. Sourcing decisions that involve a measure of national pride are bound to be controversial especially when they buck the obvious route. But surely it s logical that Canadian athletes should be wearing apparel produced by and for Canadians. I wonder how many other countries are going to be embroiled in a similar row?

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